Life on the road

Can't believe we've been in Africa for 2 months now! Only 1.5 months to go now before we head to Asia. We just arrived in Kenya yesterday (Mombasa - Kenya's second biggest city on the coast), after spending just over 3 weeks in Tanzania.

Last time we wrote we were in Zanzibar, in the old Swahili Stone Town. The town itself was very interesting - lots of tight winding "streets" (really small corridors, but people still whizzed around on motor bikes), white washed buildings with beautiful carved wood doors, Mosques around every corner, bustling markets, and interesting museums/ruins. We went into an old Omani bathhouse, as well as down into a cellar where they kept the slaves who were to be sold in the slave market. They built a beautiful church on the site of the slave market - the altar is situated where the old whipping post used to be. We also visited the night market a couple nights for dinner - for a couple of dollars you can feast on things like Zanzibar pancakes, samosas, french fries, meat sticks, etc. Not exactly fine cuisine, but tasty. They also have tons of seafood, but we didn't get that adventurous. We did try the fresh cane juice. They press it there in front of you, and add lemon juice and ginger. Very yummy. Two gentlemen from Oman bought us a round, which was very nice.

After Stone Town we spent 2.5 days at the beach - staying in a bungalow right on the beach on the East Coast of Zanzibar island. There were only 5 bungalows at the "resort", and nothing else along the beach except for a small village a little ways away, so it was really quite deserted. We swam, went snorkeling on the reef (not the best, but still fun), got burnt, and read tons. Also met a nice couple (French/Slovakian) so we didn't have to talk to each other all the time :)

After the beach we took the ferry back to Dar Es Salaam. A somewhat hellish 2 hours, but we survived. The waves were pretty huge so the boat was very bumpy. People in the front of the boat were screaming for a good half hour at the beginning. I didn't see anyone get sick, but I'm sure there were many - we were just trying to hang in there. And on top of all that, they played Michael Jackson music videos for over an hour, and then Celine Dion!

After spending an evening in Dar we took the luxury bus up to Mombo. They gave us cookies, juice, water, and showed a movie! The movie was called "Prey", and it's about a family going on safari in Africa and getting hunted by a lion (the lion kills their guide, along with a few other people). Found this very amusing since there were many tourists on the bus heading up to Arusha, which is the starting point for Serengetti safaris! Someone working on the bus had a twisted sense of humour.

So, we got off at Mombo with another couple - the four of us got into a minibus headed up to the town of Lushoto. It looked comfortable enough, but we soon realized that they wouldn't leave until they had filled up the van. And "filling the van" in Tanzania is very different from North America. At one point we had 25 adults in the minibus, plus at least a couple of kids. Crazy! An uncomfortable 1.5 hour ride, but it was up a beautiful winding road through the mountains.

In Lushoto we found a cheap place to stay - for less than $7 we had a room with a double bed, ensuite bathroom (squat toilet and cold bucket shower, but at least something), and a tv (showing whatever channel they were watching in the lobby). Can't beat that! (Trying to stay positive here)

We then went on a 2.5 day hike, with a guide and the other couple (Polish/Dutch) from the minibus. It was amazing! We walked from village to village in the beautiful Usambara mountains. The villagers plant banana trees, yams, cabbage, rice, sugar cane, avocados, potatoe, trees, etc. It's so green and gorgeous, with the hills all terraced - every inch of land is used. White people don't visit the area too too ofen, so as soon as you approach a village you hear little voices yelling "Mzunga, mzunga!" (white people), and they all come screaming to see you - asking us to take their picture, etc. Some kids would cry and run away if you approached them (when I say "you", I mean Brian :) The secondary school kids would often want to talk to us so they could practice their English. Also chatted a bit with the nuns and priest at the convent that we stayed at the one evening (where there was no electricity - not even a generator - so we stumbled around with candles after foolishly leaving our flashlights in Lushoto). It was an amazing experience - the landscape, culture, everything. Our last day we had to get up at 3:50am, to take the 4am bus back to near Lushoto. 2 hours on a bumpy uncomfortable bus in the middle of the night - not exactly fun! Was glad to get off and hike for a couple more hours to a beautiful view point and an excellent breakfast.

After this we went back on the road, again with the Polish/Dutch couple, taking a local bus from Lushoto to Tanga on the coast. Another killer uncomfortable bus ride. The local buses stop every few minutes - people get on, get off, etc. They pack as many people as they can in - when you think, no they can't fit any more people on, they stop and 5 more people get on! Insane. But as they say in Africa, Hakuna Matata. Our backpacks were tied onto the roof, which was a bit worriesome. Hakuna Matata. If they fall off, they fall off - nothing you can do. (But we were fine!)

After getting off at Tanga we were under siege by around 10 guys all trying to sell us bus tickets to Mombasa, etc. Nina (Polish girl) and I looked after the bags while the boys looked for the best deal. The four of us were extremely pissed off by the time we left, and were hating Tanga already - couldn't believe how much they were harrassing us, lying to us, etc. Hakuna matata ? We decided to book the tickets the next day, since we didn't trust anyone enough to pay in advance.

The next morning at the bus station was another gong show. We finally got on a minibus headed to Mombasa, express. But as we were leaving they were still piling people in so that it was quite squishy. The couple we were with weren't impressed, so they ended up getting off to find a more comfie bus. Brian and I stuck it out - we just wanted to get to Mombasa - and it didn't really turn out that bad. Met a nice Kenyan man who gave us advice on where to go.

Mombasa - lots of headaches trying to book a safari in Tsavo Park. Won't get into it, but it took quite a few hours of our time. Could have gotten a cheaper price, but the guy lied to us a couple of time so we didn't want to give him our money. Going with a reputable company, and it's just the two of us, so should be good. Brian's trying not to have a heart attack over the cost :)

Last night was amazing - we went on a dinner cruise in the harbour. Again very expensive, but worth it. We were on a beautiful dhow (traditional wooden sail boat, with gorgeous carvings, etc.), the weather was perfect, the dinner (seafood) was incredible... So romantic that a guy there proposed to his girlfriend on the dance floor, while the cheesy band was singing a depressing James Blunt song, and the rest of us watched. Very funny.

Did enjoy getting dressed up a bit (even wore lipstick!) and going out in style. You wouldn't recognize Brian - he's got a beard now! Yes, a full beard. We are taking pictures - but still not having any luck posting unfortunately. At some point, we promise!

Today we hung out in town, visited the old Portugese Fort Jesus, wandered around the Old Town, etc. This internet cafe is getting very very hot, so I think we'll head to a local pub and have a beer now...

In case you're interested, our itinerary looks like this:
August 13-15: Tsavo safari
August 15/16: Night bus to Nairobi, stay in Nairobi
August 17: Depart on a 13 day trip to Samburu, Marsabit, Lake Turkana, Maralal, and a 5 day Camel Safari, then back to Nairobi
Then we take a bus to Uganda...

Take care!
Anne (and Brian).